JUST a matter of Biology

S/S12 saw influence from living forms, most noticeably fauna; the underworld, overgound and biomorphic.

However, current trends could see the fashion industry take a new direction for AW12; transforming into something darker, more organic and raw.

>> BRAINS: The Mind as Matter 2012 exhibition explored what has been done to brains in the cause of scientific study.

Curator Marius Kwint said the exhibition was "a physical encounter with the brain as an organ and as an object".

Leaflet for 'BRAINS: The Mind As Matter'



Evening Standard article on the exhibition

>> THE NEXT NATURE MOVEMENT believes that in the future we will think about things ecologically, rather tahn mechanically. The movement is a website and a philosophy that merges technology and nature to become one new nature.

"With our attempts to cultivate nature, humankind causes the rising of a next nature, which is wild and unpredictable as ever. Wild systems, genetic surprises, autonomous machinery and splendidly beautiful black flowers. Nature changes along with us."

>> MICROGRAPHERS (a possible root of the biological influence):

>> THE DAMIEN HIRST EXHIBITION at the Tate gallery in April 2012, has renewed media attention, thrusting Hirst's work back into the public eye.

 

>> RICK GENEST, "rough-sleeper turned avant-garde model" (Louise Jury), began his transformation into Rico the Zombie after surviving a brain tumour that could have killed him.

"Everyone has a different idea of what is beautiful. It's not like it's a real corpse. It's art." Genest

>> IN BEAUTY, the organic, biological trend has presented itself in the form of caviar.

Ciaté launched the caviar manicure earlier this year; caviar-like pearls are applied over wet nails, formng a textured surface.



>> LOVELY BONES, an article in the Evening Standard, showed how the organic trend is influencing interior design and homeware.

>> MY TREND INTERPRETATION

Further Egyptian Discoveries

Since my 'JUST Egyptian Elegance' post in March, where I spotted the emergence of an Ancient Egyptian influence, there have been further indications of the trend developing.

At Radio 1's Hackney Weekend, Rihanna closed the show with a spectacular performance, and the theme? EGYPT! Yes, the trend has crossed from beauty to music... we can only speculate that the trend may soon appear within the fashion industry.

The stage set-up:

Rihanna's throne:

Egyptian themed embellishment on black leather jacket and sunglasses:

Egyptian themed black leather hat:

Chunky gold necklace:

Cleopatra influenced eyes and hair:

Gold mic:

Dancers outfits:

Backing vocalists styled in gold dresses and jewellery with Cleopatra inspired bobs:

At the Diamond Jubilee Concert, held on 4th June 2012, Jessie J performed in an amazing embellished electric blue black and gold dress. The geometric shapes, bold colour combination and long, sleek, dark hair capture a sense of Ancient Egyptian influence.

Accessorising with an Egyptian elegance:

'Plush plumes, exotic beads and ornate gold cuffs make the perfect finishing touches. More is more this season.' (Net-a-porter.com)

This is a collection of current images that I have collated to evoke the strength in the Egyptian trend.







JUST Shoes

UK Vogue have identified a number of hot heels and fun flats for SS12 of which I have selected my favourites and included a few of my own finds!

 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Novelty trainers >>

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Fun heels >>



 

 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Studs 'n' spikes >>

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Woven wonders >>





United Nude- Eamz pump, £350
Charles and Ray Eames fashioned some of the most iconic designs of the 20th century. United Nude's Eamz pays tribute to the duo's inspiring creations, attributing the shoes with the comfort and style of their famous chairs  

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Floral footwear >>

 

  

 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Mules >>

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -



- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

I came across United Nude, located at 13 Floral Street, one day after working in Covent Garden, London. It is an architectural shoe company founded by architect Rem D Koolhaas and seventh generation shoemaker Galahad Clark. 

The brand has brought its signature retail concept to Floral Street, Covent Garden, London, shrouding the entire 200 sqm. space in darkness, while the most amazing heels you have ever seen are individually highlighted in the eye-catching, computer-controlled wall of light.

United Nude prides itself on being one of the most collaborative design companies in the fashion world today, working together with new and upcoming designers as well as world renowned names to create surprising and original looks that fuse together different talents and ideas.

Collaborations >

 

Among members of the fashion world, Iris van Herpen is known for pushing the boundaries of Haute Couture. On January 23rd she showed for the second time as an official guest of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris, and once again wowed the audience.


Models stepped out in “Fang” shoes with ten sharp teeth to each foot – the product of van Herpen’s fifth successful collaboration with United Nude. The shape of the wedge is so complex that each one consists of fiberglass and carbon fiber, made in a slow molding process.

Iris van Herpen’s designs demonstrate fashion as art. Her creations are clear artistic statements through which women can express their unique character. It is no surprise that Bjork and Lady Gaga are part of her devoted clientele.

 

Dutch designer Mattijs van Bergen is celebrated for his curvaceous fashion and freshly feminine designs. On February 5 he closed Amsterdam Fashion week with a show at the Heineken Music Hall that stunned the media and turned into the biggest event of the week.

The footwear for the show was specially designed by United Nude in collaboration with Mattijs. An exclusive limited edition of these Mattijs x United Nude shoes will be available from United Nude in 2012.

Rem D Koolhaas, Creative Director United Nude, said: “Mattijs and United Nude have been talking about collaborating for a while and now was the right time. Even though this is already our third collaboration with a Dutch designer this year, we went for it. Joining forces in the creative field is part of the United Nude spirit and we are proud to be perhaps one of the most collaborative brands in the industry.”

 

For Autumn/Winter 2009-2010 United Nude made a series of boots for up-and-coming Dutch fashion designer Antoine Peters. The Sharpei boots are decorated with Antoine's striking arrow prints.

'I'm with stupid' is a humorous insult which is best known printed on novelty T-shirts, expressing that a person in the direction of an arrow is 'stupid'. Together with the lack of self-mockery this inspired a collection full off 'plays with directions' in fabric-draping, pattern-cutting, print-design and fast (negative) judgements.

In the Spring of 2007 United Nude teamed up with the provocative Chinese photographer 223 for a series of daring photos edited by Charlie Koolhaas. For more on 223 visit his website: www.linzhipeng223.com